iPhoto 7.1.4

This update contains new holiday greeting card and postcard themes for use with Apple print products. It also addresses general compatibility issues, improves overall stability, and addresses a number of other minor issues.

iWeb 2.0.4

This update addresses general compatibility issues.

iMovie 7.1.4

This update addresses general compatibility issues, improves overall stability, and addresses a number of other minor issues.

iLife Support 8.3

iLife Support provides system software components shared by all iLife ’08 applications. This update improves overall stability and addresses a number of other minor issues. It is recommended for all users for iLife ’08.

For information on the security content of this update, visit http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61798

The Mac OS X Update For MobileMe is recommended for users running Mac OS X Leopard 10.5.4 and includes general system fixes that enhance your Mac for MobileMe.

For detailed information about MobileMe, visit http://www.me.com.

This week, Apple released its new online service, MobileMe. At the same time, it discontinued its old service, .Mac.

My Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard book provides some coverage of the features of .Mac. I have not yet had time to work with and develop new material covering MobileMe. I expect to be writing new articles and creating new videos about MobileMe soon. You’ll find them here as I release them.

In the meantime, if you’re a .Mac user, I highly recommend that you read Apple’s support document, “.Mac to MobileMe transition FAQ.” It will provide you the basic information you need to make the transition from the old service to the new one.

If you have specific questions about using MobileMe features, please use the comments link or form for this article. Although I can’t guarantee an answer, I will use the questions I receive here to write new articles about MobileMe for this site. Just keep in mind that I can’t provide technical support for connection and compatibility problems. For that kind of help, please turn to Apple Support.

The 10.5.4 Update is recommended for all users running Mac OS X Leopard and includes general operating system fixes that enhance the stability, compatibility and security of your Mac.

For detailed information on this update, visit http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1994.
For detailed information on security updates, visit http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1222.

QuickTime 7.5 improves application compatibility and addresses security issues.

This release is recommended for all QuickTime 7 users.

For detailed information on the security content of this update, visit http://www.info.apple.com/kbnum/n61798.

The 10.5.3 Update is recommended for all users running Mac OS X Leopard and includes general operating system fixes that enhance the stability, compatibility and security of your Mac.

For detailed information on this update, visit http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1141.
For detailed information on security updates, visit http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1222.

This Java for Mac OS X 10.5 Update 1 adds Java SE 6 version 1.6.0_05 to your Mac. This update does not replace the existing installation of J2SE 5.0 or change the default version of Java.

For more details on this update, visit http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=307403

Yesterday afternoon, I had the honor of being one of the “jurists” in the new MacJury podcast created and moderated by Chuck Joiner. Chuck’s responsible for a number of podcasts aimed at Mac users, including MacVoices and MacNotables.

From MacJury’s About page:

Designed to be entertaining, informative and thought-provoking, The MacJury will pass judgment on news, issues, products and more. Each show will feature a different panel of personalities from the Mac universe in a freewheeling discussion that will interest Mac users of all expertise and experience levels.

I was invited to be one of the jurists for the third podcast of the series. Chuck was joined by me, Nancy Gravley, Joe Kissell, and Don McAllister. Through the miracle of the Internet (specifically, Skype), the five of us, located in the U.S. and Europe, were joined together for a good discussion of the pros and cons of .Mac and the new Mac clones. You can download the 54-minute MP3 file containing our discussion from the MacJury #803 page.

Or, better yet, subscribe to the podcast. If you’re a Mac user interested in current topics that affect you and your Mac, I think you’ll get a lot out of it.

This update is recommended for all Safari users and includes improvements to stability, compatibility and security.

For detailed information on the security content of this update, visit http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1222.

I bought a 15-inch MacBook Pro about a year ago. I use it primarily as my “test mule” — the computer I run software on when I’m writing about the software. But recently, I signed a contract to create a video training course for macPro Video. I’d record the video on my MacBook Pro using some high-end recording hardware. The hardware’s install guide requires a minimum of 1 GB of RAM, which my MacBook Pro had. But it also recommended 2 GB of RAM. More RAM is always better than less, so I looked into upgrading.

I found compatible RAM on the 4AllMemory.com Web site. LIke most RAM suppliers, 4AllMemory makes it easy to find the right RAM for your computer by letting you tell it exactly which computer you have. In my case, I have a MacBook Pro 2.16GHz 15.4-inch computer. The page for that computer offered a bunch of options.

I was shocked by the price. And, as usual, I must digress to explain why.

Back in 1989, when I bought my first Mac — a Mac IIcx — I upgraded the RAM from the 1 MB (not a typo) on board to 2 MB (not a typo) by installing four 256 K (not a typo) RAM SIMMs. The cost for that upgrade: $750 (not a typo).

The single 1 GB SO-DIMM I needed for my MacBook Pro would cost me $29.99 with free shipping.

As discussed in “MacBook Pro: How to install memory” on Apple’s Web site, RAM is very easy to install. The only thing you need is a size 0 or 00 Phillips screwdriver. The instructions on that page are step-by-step, with diagrams that show you each step. While I recommend that document as required reading before a memory installation, I took some photos this morning to supplement those steps.

Here’s how I did the job.

First, I shut down the computer. Then I laid out a dishtowel on my kitchen table and put the closed computer upside down on the towel (to protect its footless top from scratching). The bottom of the computer looks like this:

Next, I removed the battery by pushing up on the two sliding latches that hold it in place and pulling the battery out. That exposed the three small screws that hold the RAM cover in place. I removed the three screws with the Phillips screwdriver. In this photo, two of the screws have already been removed:

With all screws removed, I lifted the RAM cover off, exposing the RAM slots. As you can see here, there are two slots; one is filled with a 1 GB SO-DIMM and the other is empty. A diagram illustrates how the slots work. Basically, the DIMMs slide in at an angle and then get pushed down parallel to the computer’s body.

I lined up the new DIMM’s pins and notch with the slot on the computer and firmly pushed in into place. Sorry about the bad focus in this shot:

Then I pushed the entire DIMM down until it locked right above the other DIMM:

After that, it was just a matter of screwing the RAM compartment cover back on and replacing the battery. When I started up the computer, a quick peek at About This Mac confirmed that the computer recognized the new RAM.

Total time elapsed: 5 minutes. But that’s because I stopped to take pictures.

It’s almost embarrassing to admit: I wrote a book about Leopard and I could never get Back to My Mac (BTMM) to work for me. I thought it was a problem with Leopard. Many others seemed to, too. I figured I’d wait for a fix.

But now I find that I need BTMM functionality. So I spent the better part of two days troubleshooting the problem. The result: I’ve found a solution for my situation. If you’ve been having BTMM problems, maybe this will fix you up, too.

What Is Back to My Mac?

In case you have no idea what I’m talking about, here’s a quick review.

BTMM is a Leopard feature that works with a .Mac account. With it properly configured and enabled (the tricky part), it enables you to connect to your Mac for file sharing or screen sharing from another Mac on the Internet. This gives you secure access to your computer’s hard disk contents from virtually anywhere in the world. But it also gives you access to applications on a Mac. So, for example, I could use screen sharing from my MacBook Pro in Washington to open a Word document on my iMac in Arizona and use the iMac’s faxmodem to fax that document anywhere I like.

As you can imagine, this can be very useful if you’re away from your home or office Mac — especially for an extended period of time. Since I’ll be away from my iMac from the end of May through the middle of September this year, I was highly motivated to make this work.

My Problem — Well, the One with BTMM, Anyway

My problem was that when I was at a remote location, I could see the icon for my iMac, but I could not connect to it for either file sharing or screen sharing. In other words, BTMM simply wasn’t able to connect, despite the fact that it “saw” the computer I wanted to connect to.

What really annoyed me was that I had BTMM set up according to the Back to My Mac Guide provided by Apple. I’d RTFM — why wasn’t it working?

I won’t go into details on basic BTMM configuration options. I wrote about them in “Going Back to Your Mac in Mac OS X Leopard” — which is even more embarrassing. These instructions should work for most BTMM users — unless you have a double-NAT problem. I suspect that the majority of Mac users who can’t get this to work have that problem. I did.

But, as it turned out, my problem was even weirder.

Drat, Drat, that Double-NAT!

I’m not a networking expert and I really don’t want to be. Here’s what I understand about NAT as it relates to BTMM.

For BTMM to work, you must have a NAT-enabled router. That includes any AirPort Extreme base station or AirPort Express. It also includes a wide variety of other routers that you may use. Basically, if it’s relatively new — within a few years or so — it probably supports NAT. Both the Back to My Mac guide and my article (referenced above) explain how to enable NAT on an AirPort base station.

But if the cablemodem or other device provided by your ISP also has NAT enabled, you have double-NAT. This possibility is discussed in a good amount of detail in the Apple technical note titled “Back to My Mac: ‘Double-NAT’ Configurations may prevent Back to My Mac connections.”

You can’t have double-NAT. That means you have to turn one of the NAT setups off. In the double-NAT article, Apple recommends turning off NAT on your cablemodem, which is usually possible via a logon with a Web browser. If you can’t do that for some reason, you can set Connection Sharing to Off (Bridge mode) on your AirPort base station. The article explains exactly how to do it.

Either technique should resolve the problem for 90% of the people who have followed all the basic instructions and still can’t get BTMM to work.

But it didn’t resolve my problem.

I’m Special

Unfortunately, life at the edge of nowhere means you often have to settle for non-standard services. That pretty much describes my Internet service, which is provided by Chandler, AZ-based Bluewire.

There’s no cable television or fiber-optic telephone lines where I live and work. If I want something faster than dial-up — let’s get real here: who can live with dial-up these days? — I had to resort to a wireless Internet connection. No, it’s not dial-up networking (DUN), which I have in my Treo for when I’m in the middle of nowhere. It’s an antenna on the roof of my house. It points at an antenna on an AM radio tower about 2 miles away. That antenna points to an antenna on a water tower in downtown Wickenburg. That’s connected to a router that’s connected to a T1 connection.

I’m not the only person using that T1. Anyone in Wickenburg who’s outside of the range of cable and DSL who is willing to spend $39.99 a month for something faster than dial-up is sucking Internet off the same system. The router at the water tower has NAT enabled and distributes IP addresses to all of us.

But because the router is centralized, I can’t reconfigure it. According to Apple’s double-NAT article, setting Connection Sharing to Off (Bridge Mode) should do the trick. But it didn’t. The Apple support guy I talked to, Daniel in Austin, says that’s because I’m not getting a 10.x.x.x or 192.168.x.x IP address from my ISP’s router. This is confusing the system to the point that I completely lose my Internet connection when Bridge mode is enabled.

I needed another solution.

Give Me Some Static!

Ira, at my ISP explained that if I had a static IP address, NAT would be disabled for my connection to his system. He gave me a static IP address to try.

Guess what? When everything was properly configured, it worked!

(That static IP address will cost me an extra $7/month. Hey Ira, how about forgetting to add that to the billing system? Aren’t I already paying enough? Have pity for me! I live in Wickenburg!)

Here’s the fix that worked for me. Remember, I’m using an AirPort Extreme base station. If you’re using a different router, these exact instructions won’t apply.

1. Open AirPort Utility and click the icon for your base station.
2. Click the Internet button in the toolbar and then click the Internet Connection button in the main window.
3. Choose Manually from the Configure IPv4 pop-up menu.
4. Enter the IP address, Subnet Mask, Router Address, and DNS Servers provided by your ISP in the appropriate boxes.
5. Make sure Connection Sharing is set to Share a public IP address. At this point, it should look something like this, but with real IP addresses:
   
6. Click the NAT button to display NAT options.
7. Make sure the check box for Enable NAT Port Mapping Protocol is turned on.
8. Click Update.
9. Wait while your AirPort base station is updated.

When the base station’s icon reappears in the AirPort utility window, you’re ready to test your Internet connection. Do this right away by checking your e-mail or opening a Web browser page that isn’t cached.

You shouldn’t have to change anything in your Network preferences pane. It should just take the IP address your AirPort base station sends it. So should all the other computers on the network.

Now go to another network and try accessing your computer via BTMM. In my case, the easiest way to do this was to create a DUN connection from my MacBook Pro’s Bluetooth connection to my Treo. (That sure doesn’t sound very easy, does it?) I was able to connect just like Steve Jobs said I should. Whew!

As soon as this is posted, I’ll head over to the local library and give it a try from their WiFi network. Cross your fingers for me!

I hope some of this information helps you fix your BTMM problems. Good luck!

4:00 PM Update: Just got back from a trip into town. Although BTMM would not work via the library’s WiFi connection, it did work from a nearby restaurant’s open WiFi connection that I latched onto from a parking space out front. (I must have looked pretty silly driving around town in my Jeep, parking in front of likely locations, and opening my MacBook Pro to search for WiFi.) I’m going to conclude that the library’s WiFi setup is somehow weird and different — which I wouldn’t doubt, since it was set up by the Town’s computer consultant who is also a bit weird and different. I’m going to call this a complete success. Best of luck to those of you still having problems.

Reader Mike writes about my Tiger book:

On page 63 the mounting of storage media is covered. In the first paragraph it mentions Hard Discs, which may or not be Hard Drives (the description is a little vague), but then it does not cover how to mount them (if they are in fact Hard Drives). I know there is a “look at the documentation that came with the device” disclaimer for all devices not specifically dealt with, but considering the popularity of Hard Drives I hope future editions (maybe they do already!) will describe the basic process of mounting them.

I guess the reason I didn’t get specific about mounting a hard disk in my Tiger book is because there’s really nothing to it. (I do discuss it in some detail on page 104 of my Leopard book, which expands my discussion of storage media considerably.) When you attach an external hard disk to a Mac and power it up, it’s automatically mounted. In other words, its icon appears on the desktop or in the sidebar of Finder windows so you can access it.

External hard disks are normally connected via Firewire or USB. Either cable can be connected to your Mac while it is running. Just connect the device and turn it on. Some portable hard disks are powered through Firewire or USB and don’t even have a power switch. When you plug them into a running computer, they’re automatically powered up and mounted.

The one thing you must remember is to unmount an external device before disconnecting it. This is similar to ejecting removable media. The most straightforward way to do this is to drag its icon to the trash. I cover this in both my Leopard and Tiger books.

Learn More

You can learn more about using different kinds of storage media with your Macintosh in Chapter 6 of Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard: Visual QuickStart Guide. That’s where you can find discussions covering mounting and ejecting disks, burning CDs and DVDs, setting CD and DVD preferences, using Disk Utility, and setting up and using Time Machine.

This update fixes several issues to improve the stability of iMac computers.

After the firmware is successfully applied to your Mac, your Boot ROM Version will be:
IM71.007A.B03

You can confirm the version of the BootROM installed on your computer using System Profiler.

For further information on this Update, visit http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303364.

This firmware update addresses an issue with the Apple Aluminum Keyboard and the Apple Aluminum Wireless Keyboard where a key may repeat unexpectedly while typing. The update also addresses other issues.

[And I thought I was causing this problem.]

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of adding a second display to my 24-in iMac setup. In this quick article, I’ll explain why I did this and provide some tips for how you can do it, too.

Why Two displays?

First of all, you need to understand how having a second display on your computer can work. Basically, you can use the second display two ways:

• Use the second display to mirror the main display. You’d use this primarily when doing a presentation and you need a larger or second display to display to your audience. This is pretty common if you do a presentation from a laptop; you’d connect it to a projector which acts as a second display, then turn on mirroring.
• Use the second display to add screen space to your computer setup. So instead of having the space on one display screen, you also have the space from the second display screen. The joined pair of screenshots below illustrate how this could work. This is how I use the second display.

The following example shows how I use my two displays. The one on the left is my 24-inch iMac display. This is my main display, which includes the menu bar, Dock (when displayed), and desktop icons. The one on the right is my new 22-inch Samsung DVI-D display. I’ve positioned them side by side, so when my mouse pointer is on the right side of the left display screen and I move the mouse to the right, it moves into the right display screen.

You may wonder why, with 24 inches of screen real estate set to its highest resolution (1920 x 1200 pixels), I wanted to add another display to my setup. There are two reasons:

• I could. High resolution digital displays are surprisingly affordable these days (with the exception of those made by Apple and a number of other high-end makers). The new display cost just $309 in Best Buy; and yes, I’m sure I could have gotten a better deal elsewhere, if I were willing to spend days/weeks/months researching and shopping.
• I felt that I could be more productive if I could move my online applications — Mail, Twitterrific, Skype, iChat — into a second display where they’d be visible but I wouldn’t have to switch to them. (Yes, I’ve tried Spaces and I’m very sorry to say that I just couldn’t make it work the way I needed it to with all my apps.)

I would like to mention here that although I bought a Samsung display and it works fine with my iMac, I’m not necessarily recommending it. The picture is okay and it worked right out of the box without installing any drivers. But the picture quality is not anywhere near as good as the incredible picture on my iMac — even my husband commented on it at first glance. So if you work with graphics or have problems with your eyesight and you’re not on a budget, I recommend that you check out an Apple display first. It might just be worth the $900 (for 23 inches) or $1800 (for 30 inches) price tag for you. Personally, I couldn’t justify the additional expense.

Set Up Tips

Once you decide to add a second display, consider these things:

• Can your computer support a second display? This is a biggie. If the answer is no, forget it. You can find out if your Mac can support a second display by visiting the Apple store and chatting with someone working the floor. If that’s not an option, try checking Apple’s Web site for technical specifications on your computer model. (Here’s the specs for mine.) If you’re really confused and your Mac is a currently available model, you can try giving the Apple Store a call at 1-800-MY-APPLE (in the U.S.) and asking. (Please don’t use this phone number to get technical support — it’s a sales number and the person who answers will not be able to help you.)
• What’s the maximum resolution your computer will support for the second display? This is also information you can get from the above sources. You need to know this so you don’t buy a display that’s too big for what your computer can support. My 22-inch Samsung has a lower resolution than what my computer can support.
• What cable will you need for your display? Before you answer this question, either know which display you plan to buy or buy the display. If you’re like me, no matter how many cables and adapters you have in your home or office, you will not have the one you need.

To make sure I got the right adapter, I looked at the description on the display box, examined the DVI-D cable that came with the display, checked the pictures here, called the Apple Store to ask, and looked up the adapter on the Apple Store’s Web site.

Do I sound paranoid? I live 50 miles from the closest Apple Store and there’s nothing more frustrating than getting the wrong cable or adapter. The Apple Web site is full of bad reviews by buyers who bought the wrong adapter; I didn’t want to make the same mistake.

I sent a link to the Apple Store Web page for the adapter to my husband at work in Phoenix and told him to print it and bring it with him to the Apple Store. He walked into the Biltmore store, flashed the printout, and got the right adapter. The cost: $19.

Remember that the adapter I bought works for me with my computer and my second display; it might not work for you. Do your homework and don’t blame me if you buy the wrong one.

Setting Options

Once you’ve got the second display connected and powered up, your Mac should automatically recognize it. Although you may not need to configure it at all, you can. Here’s what the configuration looks like with my Leopard setup.

Open System Preferences and click the Displays icon. Two Displays preferences panes should appear — one on each screen.

Here’s the Display panel of the Display preferences pane on each display. I won’t go into detail on the usual settings; I cover all that in my Leopard book. Instead, note the Gather Windows button. Clicking this button moves all the open windows to that display. You might find this handy if you have a second display connected and you don’t want to power it up. What I’ve discovered is that your Mac will remember where an application’s windows were the last time you ran the application and will reopen the windows there. The Gather Windows button moves those windows to the display you click the button on.

You might also notice a Rotate button on the SyncMaster window for my Samsung display. That’s a weird little feature that enables me to rotate the display’s image in 90° increments. (The larger display actually has a rotating base.)

To set up the positioning of the displays, click the Arrangement button on the main display’s Display preferences pane. The Arrangement panel, shown here, displays the two displays as they are arranged. In my setup, the two displays are physically side by side with the Samsung a little lower than the iMac. You can drag the boxes to reposition the displays and I highly recommend that you do so if you need to. For example, if your second display is on the left, drag its box to the left of the main display. This way the mouse behaves logically when you drag it from one screen to another. (This, by the way, would be a great practical joke to play on a friend with two displays; just switch the boxes around to drive him nuts!)

If you decide you want the menu bar on the other display, just drag it over there. That’ll move the menu bar, Dock, and volume icons that appear on the desktop.

If you want to mirror the displays, as discussed at the beginning of this article, turn on the Mirror Displays check box. This is also where you’d disable this feature if it happened to be turned on by default.

But Wait! There’s More!

Of course, you can set many of the Options in the Displays preferences pane if you turn on the Displays menu. Here’s what my Displays menu looks like with both displays connected. As you can see, I can enable/disable mirroring, set resolution for either display, or open Display preferences. Saves the bother of going into the Displays preferences pane for making minor adjustments.

Learn More

You can learn more about options in the Displays preferences pane on pages 553-554 of Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard: Visual QuickStart Guide.

And if you’d prefer to stick with one monitor, be sure to check out pages 179-183 of the book to learn more about Spaces.

Get a Print Version of this Article

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